Time to check your shelves – This is why you can no longer say PPD-free colour… - Salon Gold (2025)

By Nick Plunkett on March 24th, 2025

In February, the Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) ruled against a cosmetic company that marketed a hair dye as ‘PPD-free’ while it contained PTD (toluene-2,5-diamine sulfate). PTD is chemically related to PPD (para-phenylenediamine) and can cause allergic reactions in PPD-sensitised individuals. The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association (CTPA) argued that ‘PPD-free’ claims on products containing PTD or other PPD-related compounds are misleading and potentially dangerous. The ASA agreed. We spoke to Nick Plunkett, CEO of Colourstart, to set the record straight when it comes to PPD…

Confused about PPD free claims? You’re not alone. The use of the phrase PPD-Free to describe products containing alternative related chemicals like PTD and ME+ (ME-PPD) have been clamped down by the UK Cosmetics trade association and adverts have been removed by advertising regulators.

Why do I need to know about the risks of PPD-free colour?

Clients with a PPD allergy sometimes go to great lengths to find a colour they can use to colour their greys. A PPD-free colour can sometime be too attractive! The expert advice hairdressers need to understand is if a client knows (or thinks) they have an allergy to colour, they are very likely to react to any colour labelled with a 48hr allergy test, even if that colour is labelled as PPD free.

Why can’t I use an AAT to check a client will be OK with the colour?

The AAT is no guarantee of a safe colour service. An AAT is designed to tell you and your client something about them they didn’t already know. The AAT is not good enough to ‘over-ride’ the knowledge your client might have an allergy.

If a hair colour doesn’t contain PPD, can they have an allergic reaction?

If they have an allergy to PPD then you should not use any oxidative hair colour, even if it claims to be PPD free. How would you know if a colour is an oxidative colour? If it requires a test before use, this is normally an oxidative type of colour.

Can chemicals such as PTD and ME+ cause an allergic reaction?

Newer chemicals than PPD are on the market and they are thought to be less likely to cause sensitisation, but there is no evidence that new chemicals that replace PPD are less likely to cause an allergic reaction. However, chemicals like ME+ (ME-PPD) used in permanent hair colorants claim to be less likely to make someone allergic to hair colour.

If a client has an allergy to PPD are they likely to experience an allergy to PTD or ME+ or another oxidative hair colour?

Yes. These chemicals are so similar from an allergy perspective that they are said to ‘cross-react’. PPD is overwhelmingly the most important chemical allergen in hair dye. Think about someone with a nut allergy. They don’t avoid one particular nut – they avoid all nuts. It is the same with PPD. The chemistry with other chemicals is very similar and can cross react to some degree, so you are taking a risk, even if it says PPD free.

What can the hairdressing sector learn from the news?

1. Clients with a known or suspected allergy to PPD should not useanyhair colour product labelled with a requirement test, even if that product does not contain PPD.
2. Hairdressers and their clients may mistakenly believe ‘PPD-free’ products are safer to use, risking severe allergic reactions.
3. It is important to understand and communicate accurate information about hair colour safety to clients.

What can you do?

1. Review Your Products.Are PPD-free claims used on products in your salon?
2. Educate Staff and Clients.An allergy to PPD means clients should not use any hair colour labelled with an Allergy Alert Test, even if that colour does not contain PPD.
3. Stay Informed.Keep up-to-date with regulations and guidelines on cosmetic claims and ingredient safety.

Remember, the safety of your clients is paramount. Always follow the UK’s Harmonised Professional Allergy Testing Protocol with any colour service.